Check In:
A 19th-century Palacio (and former paper factory), Hotel Urso is not only bursting with personality, it occupies a particularly perfect slice of Salesas neighborhood real estate, which is in shouting distance of most major stopping points (The Prado, Retiro Park). In step with its surroundings, the exterior is all neoclassical grandeur, while inside and it’s a study in quiet modernism.
Rooms are spacious, warm, and neutral in palette, finished with floor-to-ceiling windows to make the most of the city views. The Japanese-inspired spa (stocked with Natura Bissé and Sisley products) and greenhouse-style restaurant set Urso apart from most of its old-school, over-the-top-ritzy counterparts.
Eat:
Walking through the tavern-style entryway is akin to stepping into the Madrid of yesteryear: the plates are monogrammed, the waiters are suited-up, and the clientele spans politicians, local eccentrics, and the occasional royal. Casa Lucio is an olive-oil soaked slice of the old-world, traditional yet refined, with a classic menu of comfort food to match. Try the huevos estrellados—crispy, salty fried potatoes topped with runny eggs—and be sure to linger over dessert for the all-important sobremesa (loosely translates to post-dinner debate and conversation) that keeps Madrileños firmly planted at their tables until the early hours.
Do:
Madrid is renowned for museums, and despite its classical overtones, street art is kept alive by Boa Mistura, a multidisciplinary collective made up of five local creatives. Friends since their teen years of graffitiing the neighborhood, BM is fueled by their mission to build up the community and disrupt the notion that graffiti is vandalism. During a walking tour, your guide will point you toward many large-scale murals dotting the city.
Drink:
Bar Cock—in the same vein as Casa Lucio—is a Madrid institution. Slinging drinks since 1921, it has managed to stay not just relevant but packed with loyal patrons night after night. The cocktail-bar-meets-gastro-pub interior, with its roaring fireplace, cozy leather sofas, and soft candlelight, screams nightcap. And with an encyclopedic selection of whiskey, sherry, and other hard liquor behind the bar, staying for more than one is almost too easy.
DAY 2
Do:
Madrid’s art museums are some of the best in the world, packed to the rafters with artworks produced mainly in the Spanish Golden Age of the 16th and 17th centuries.
The Prado’s inventory is a reflection of the head-spinning breadth of Spanish royal and clerical patronage—and of the religious zeal that dominated the period. In contrast, the nearby Reina Sofia museum (named after Queen Sofia) is dedicated to modern art by Dalí, Miró, Bacon, Rothko, and Serra, to name a few, though the true showstopper here is Picasso’s “Guernica”.
This massive cubist masterpiece acutely captures the agony of the townspeople under bombardment during the Civil War, a slice of Spain’s more brutal history that still makes for a powerful anti-war statement.
Shop:
Aside from expertly tailored clothing (predominantly for guys), Le Marché Aux Puces is in the business of beautiful coffee table books and accessories, all housed in a stately former bookstore.
Meanwhile, Delitto e Castigo is considered one of the more superior shopping experiences in the world—housing racks brimming with everything from Alexander McQueen to Givenchy, in a dramatically lit architectural space—this accolade is well deserved. Our favorite, however, has to be Pez. Set up inside an abandoned military pharmacy, the store acts as an extension of the owners’ own closets and relaxed lifestyle. The resulting showroom is filled with silk Equipment shirts and floaty Nili Lotan separates alongside a beautiful edit of homewares like polished-wood serving bowls, dinner sets, ceramics, and bright textiles.
Eat:
The La Latina neighborhood is where you want to start the obligatory tapas crawl. Juana La Loca is a good initiation point: order a few cañas (miniature beers) and light tapas (a plate of Jamón, maybe a few shrimp toasts) to get the appetite going. Then, move on to La Musa for more small bites and to soak up the pre-dinner atmosphere as thousands of Madrileños do the same. Whatever route you take, make sure to end up at Ten Con Ten, a sit-down spot that serves classic tapas with a side of pasta (unexpected, but it works). No need to make reservations, plenty of tables are kept open for walk-ins.