I had been wandering Komodo for over an hour when I encountered its most famous resident. Covered in muddy, chainmail-like scales, the world’s largest lizard half-heartedly flicked his long, forked tongue, then heaved his awkward limbs and kept moving. A grinning ranger walked up to me, wielding a stick and playing twangy Bahasa ballads from his cell phone: “I guess you didn’t look good enough to eat.”