If you haven’t been to Palm Beach in a while, a brief refresher: golf is still there, as is the gorgeous beach, the monied storefront life, and all the preppy. In 2020, it’s got a whole lot more than clichés of the past. The Palm Beach of today is exciting and dynamic. The entire town feels like it got a makeover recently, one that’s as punchy as the wallpaper at the Colony. We’re not saying that Palm Beach has given up its pink and green—more that these days, the pastels come with an irreverent twist.
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STAY
The Colony
Opened in 1947, this iconic pink hotel has hosted everyone from Frank Sinatra to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. A recent $18 million renovation by famed designer Carleton Varney managed to retain the old-school charm of the hotel while brightening the property’s ninety rooms and suites with a fresh palette of classic Florida Pantones: aqua, lemon yellow, azalea pink, golf-course green. Rooms interiors are in classic Palm Beach style, but they’ve updated them with gleaming marble bathrooms and Ortigia Sicilia toiletries.
Artist and Vogue alum Kate Schelter helped out with the rebranding; her chic Sea Grape print adorns everything from matchboxes to stationery. Every inch of the place brims with personality—an exuberant one—from the Varney’s zingy banana-frond wallpaper in the lobby to the gold-dusted, Florida-shaped chocolates on your bedside table. When you’re having lunch by the pool (may we suggest the Caesar salad and key lime pie?), you’ll feel as if you’re living in a Slim Aarons photo.
The Colony is all about genteel pleasures: grab one of the hotel’s white bikes and pedal along the six-mile paved Lake Trail, which winds past colossal mansions. Ask a pink-shirted bellhop to ferry you to the beach in a pink-and-green golf cart (along with complimentary pink striped chairs and a beach umbrella.) There’s no gym, but guests have access to the palm-lined seven-court Seaview Park Tennis Center nearby.
When it’s time to venture out, the staff will also zip you around town in an SUV (another nice complimentary touch). Palm Beach, all sixteen manageable miles of it, has long been a playground for the ultrawealthy—and there are still plenty of Bentleys and small white dogs to prove it. With its buzzy restaurants, vibrant arts scene, and next-level shopping—not to mention its unforgettable style—the town has also become a destination for fashion designers and young families.
EAT
An intoxicating array of spices and bold flavors graces the cuisine at this Indian accented spot in Palm Beach Gardens (pronounced like the chef internship, not the theatrical platform). Chef Pushkar Marathe turns out memorable small plates including crispy plantain chaat iced with sweet yogurt and studded with pomegranate seeds; sunchokes with peanuts, ginger, coconut and cilantro, shrimp and kingfish fried Rice; and pork vindaloo. Try one of the accompaniments like tamarind chutney or truffle honey.
The quintessential Upper East Side bistro has been recreated on Palm Beach island and even its charming owner Jean DeNoyer, along with many of his regular patrons, have made the journey south. In addition to cushy leather banquettes, frosted glass, and wood paneling, the legendary onion soup dripping with gruyere and provolone; beef and tuna tartares; mussels with curry, coconut and lemongrass; and roast chicken enhanced by tarragon are also now in Palm Beach. Though the island tends to be quiet after 10 p.m., there is often a line for tables here as late as 9:30 p.m.
The French-American menu, created by Chef Daniel Boulud and Executive Chef Rick Mace, parallels that of Café Boulud New York with a touch of South Florida flavor. With a spotlight on the incredible seafood and produce of the region, the menu showcases classic French dishes synonymous with Boulud himself, modernized to suit the cosmopolitan palate of Palm beach: Local Spiced Mahi with Key West Shrimp and Curry Leaf, Pan Seared Scallops with Brussels sprouts and miso jus and the beloved Dover Sole Meuniere, filleted tableside. The Courtyard Terrace at the Brazilian Court and the restaurant’s elegant Dining Rooms, with a shimmery ceiling made from seashells and Pecky Cypress, have long been the place for Palm Beach locals to be entertained in style.
ART & CULTURE
Norton Museum of Art
The sleek Norton Museum of Art recently underwent a massive $100 million expansion, courtesy of star architect Sir Norman Foster. It’s easy to while away a day here, with over 8,200 works in five curatorial departments (and don’t miss the stunning new sculpture garden). American art represents a part of the collection; pieces by Edward Hopper, Georgia O’Keeffe, and Jackson Pollock, among many others, fill the walls.
Holden Luntz Gallery
Holden Luntz Gallery exhibits 20th and 21st Century master fine art photography. The gallery presents a varied aesthetic range from portraiture to alternative photography. Exhibitions range from classical photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson, Brassaï, André Kertész, Berenice Abbott, Horst P. Horst, and Edward Weston to contemporary photographers like Harry Benson, Massimo Listri, David Yarrow, Stephen Wilkes, Karen Knorr, and Garry Fabian Miller.
SHOP
Worth Avenue
Worth Avenue’s sumptuous palm-lined shopping district has both big names (Gucci, Chanel) and local institutions (Leta Austin Foster for sublime children’s clothes, Lindroth Design for housewares, like block-print table linens in sunny colors). One of the newest shops is LaunchPad, a living-room-like store that offers a revolving roster of clothing, accessories, and home décor. The founders—two former fashion editors—seek out trendy and emerging brands from all over the world, many of which are otherwise available only online. Recent offerings include floaty dresses from Laura Garcia, elegant striped sweaters from NYC’s La Ligne, and colorful beaded jewelry from local artisan Allegra Fanjul.
The Royal Poinciana Plaza
The Royal Poinciana Plaza, a luxe indoor/outdoor shopping enclave framed around two lush, leafy courtyards, was designed by famed architect John Volk in the ’50s and recently revamped. There are plenty of inventive, high-end boutiques, among them Kirna Zabête, Assouline, and Zadig & Voltaire. After shopping, hit Sant Ambroeus for a cup of sublime gelato.
Images courtesy of Constance Hobbs, Norton Museum of Art, The Colony Hotel Palm Beach and Goop.com
